04 September 2008

Japanese Obon:The return of the dead

By Sensei Rick -- 14th AUGUST 2008.
Obon is one of the most important traditions for Japanese people. It is a Buddhist event and is the period of praying for the repose of the souls of one's ancestors. People believe that their ancestors' spirits come back to their homes to be reunited with their family during obon. Obon is an important family gathering time and many people return to their hometowns. Obon was originally celebrated around the 15th day of the seventh month of the lunar calendar. Obon periods are nowadays different in various regions of Japan. In most regions, Obon is celebrated around August 15th on the solar calendar. It starts from August 13th and ends on 16th.

[Figure 1 sign outside temple gates. Click on image to enlarge]

From the 7th to the 10th of August at the Rokudo Chinno temple in ancient times this temple was the entrance to an famous burial ground called toribe-no, and the cross roads in front of the temple were considered to be the very front of this world and the next. As Obon approaches people come here to summon their ancestor spirits by striking the temple bell and lighting incense.

It is to this temple we came to pray for the soul of Kimura Mitsuro sensei. The next day I went to Honen in temple which is where Ebii Goichi sensei tombstone is, such a quiet and peaceful setting with many large cedar trees giving cool shade to the many tourists and visitors.

Obon also means that the graves must be [repaired if necessary ] cleared of weeds, washed and fresh flowers put before the headstone. Ebii sensei,s grave was a mess with stones scattered and small dead branches on top. An old lady came and apologised to me that wild pigs had made a mess. Here we are in the middle of Kyoto and they have wild pigs and monkeys running everywhere.This would not have happen in Beijing because they would have eaten them all or sent them out of the city during the games.

I had almost finished my duties when three Japanese arrived and politely asked who I was. "Rick Littlewood" I replied. "From NZ?" they said. "Yes" I said. It was Ebii sensei,s daughter in law, grand daughter and her husband, who had come for Obon rituals.


[Figure 2Ebii Goichi grave site at Honen in temple]

I was invited to the main temple to partake in the temple Obon ceremony which consisted of siting on a wooden floor for 30 minutes and listening to a Buddhist priest talk about the meaning of Obon. At the end of this moving speech I needed physical and mental help to stand up. Anyway the soba noodles we had after that were nice.

Back to Ebii sensei,s tombstone, more incense, more prayers, exchange of name cards and I take my leave to rush home to watch Olympic judo.


[Figure 3 Rokudo Chinno Temple for the dead]



Rick Littlewood in Kyoto Japan for the Beijing Olympics.

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